Saturday, September 25, 2010
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Final posting
Wed 15th Sep, Pomene – Zavora, Moz
Packed up and set off to find internet! Couldn’t believe how much Inhambane and Tofo have grown.
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Didn’t have much luck with internet – 1 had lost their link to Maputo, 2 others were closed on Wed – what a silly day to close! Decided to go to Casa Barry where Mark and I had camped 11 years ago. Wow, how it has developed – along with the prices. We had a very expensive, but great seafood lunch. Met 90 a beer is the most expensive we’d paid on the trip!
Eventually found a working internet café. The German lady who owned it warned us that internet in Tofo is slow but you can’t imagine quite how slow. I loaded the text for the blog up to 14th, but when 1 photo took about 10 minutes, we decided I’d have to add those when we got home!
We headed south hoping the wind would drop. Unfortunately it was probably worse in Zavora. We booked into a self-catering unit at Zavora Lodge. After a really nice hot shower (1st in absolutely ages) we went to the restaurant. Mark and I had had a divine meal here on a previous trip. The bar-restaurant was packed – something we haven’t seen much of on this trip. It turned out to be a company that was diving to try and find the damaged (recently laid) fibreoptic cable. They’d been at it for a month and still couldn’t find it. So much for better internet access for Africa! Unfortunately their food order was in before ours so we had quite a long wait but the food was very good.
Thurs 16th Sep Zavora – Ponta do Oura, Moz
Happy birthday Margs! Sorry you aren’t with us but we’re sure the family is happy!
The weather was still yuck so decided to push towards Pontos via Costa do Sol (Mark can’t go anywhere near Maputo without going to Costa do Sol for lunch). The rd south is being redone – by the Chinese again. It’ll be nice once done.
Can’t believe the growth in Moz. All the towns on the EN1 and sea spots have grown so much. Fortunately they still sell the cashews and per peri, which we had to buy as is customary for Moz.
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Doris took us on a roundabout route through Maputo and managed to find the rd with the huge sinkhole which is blocked and had been for at least 10 years! Got into a traffic jam but eventually got to Costa do Sol by 2. Had our usual seafood platter. Poppy is unfortunately over seafood. I think she’s had to eat too many overspiced meals in restaurants that don’t cater for kids. She only wanted a hamburger or cheese sandwich neither of which was on the menu. Luckily the waiter made a plan and made her a cheese pau roll, so she was happy.
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We got to the ferry queue by 15h25. We were 14th in the queue. The Mozambicans have a lot to learn about efficient ferries. They should send someone to observe the Dar ferries. We eventually got to the otherside at 18h50! Luckily they sell beers in the queue! Now very dark, we really hoped Doris would find her way through the maze of sand roads en route to Ponto do Oura and the border. I think Mark could actually find his own way in the dark without her, but she did ok. We had to pull out some chap in a NRB 2-wheel drive bakkie but weren’t hanging around to see whether he made it all the way. We’d never have got there. As it was we only got to Pontos at 21h30. We booked in to Motel do Mar and had a long hot bath! Hasn’t reduced the longing for my bath where I can actually stretch out and don’t have to put on socks to keep my feet clean as soon as I get out the bath cause there is perpetually sand on the floor. I really am over sand for a while now!
Packed up and set off to find internet! Couldn’t believe how much Inhambane and Tofo have grown.
2627
Didn’t have much luck with internet – 1 had lost their link to Maputo, 2 others were closed on Wed – what a silly day to close! Decided to go to Casa Barry where Mark and I had camped 11 years ago. Wow, how it has developed – along with the prices. We had a very expensive, but great seafood lunch. Met 90 a beer is the most expensive we’d paid on the trip!
Eventually found a working internet café. The German lady who owned it warned us that internet in Tofo is slow but you can’t imagine quite how slow. I loaded the text for the blog up to 14th, but when 1 photo took about 10 minutes, we decided I’d have to add those when we got home!
We headed south hoping the wind would drop. Unfortunately it was probably worse in Zavora. We booked into a self-catering unit at Zavora Lodge. After a really nice hot shower (1st in absolutely ages) we went to the restaurant. Mark and I had had a divine meal here on a previous trip. The bar-restaurant was packed – something we haven’t seen much of on this trip. It turned out to be a company that was diving to try and find the damaged (recently laid) fibreoptic cable. They’d been at it for a month and still couldn’t find it. So much for better internet access for Africa! Unfortunately their food order was in before ours so we had quite a long wait but the food was very good.
Thurs 16th Sep Zavora – Ponta do Oura, Moz
Happy birthday Margs! Sorry you aren’t with us but we’re sure the family is happy!
The weather was still yuck so decided to push towards Pontos via Costa do Sol (Mark can’t go anywhere near Maputo without going to Costa do Sol for lunch). The rd south is being redone – by the Chinese again. It’ll be nice once done.
Can’t believe the growth in Moz. All the towns on the EN1 and sea spots have grown so much. Fortunately they still sell the cashews and per peri, which we had to buy as is customary for Moz.
Doris took us on a roundabout route through Maputo and managed to find the rd with the huge sinkhole which is blocked and had been for at least 10 years! Got into a traffic jam but eventually got to Costa do Sol by 2. Had our usual seafood platter. Poppy is unfortunately over seafood. I think she’s had to eat too many overspiced meals in restaurants that don’t cater for kids. She only wanted a hamburger or cheese sandwich neither of which was on the menu. Luckily the waiter made a plan and made her a cheese pau roll, so she was happy.
We got to the ferry queue by 15h25. We were 14th in the queue. The Mozambicans have a lot to learn about efficient ferries. They should send someone to observe the Dar ferries. We eventually got to the otherside at 18h50! Luckily they sell beers in the queue! Now very dark, we really hoped Doris would find her way through the maze of sand roads en route to Ponto do Oura and the border. I think Mark could actually find his own way in the dark without her, but she did ok. We had to pull out some chap in a NRB 2-wheel drive bakkie but weren’t hanging around to see whether he made it all the way. We’d never have got there. As it was we only got to Pontos at 21h30. We booked in to Motel do Mar and had a long hot bath! Hasn’t reduced the longing for my bath where I can actually stretch out and don’t have to put on socks to keep my feet clean as soon as I get out the bath cause there is perpetually sand on the floor. I really am over sand for a while now!
Friday 17th Sep, Ponto do Oura – HOME
Thought about staying at Pontos or somewhere nice en route home but decided that as the weather wasn’t that great, it was time for home. Well, Erin and I outvoted Mark. I think he could do this forever. We on the other hand, couldn’t! No more tents, sand, cold showers, and annoying human flies for a while thanks. So once through the border, we phoned Mum and Dad to inform them we’d messed up all the homecoming plans and we would be home in about 6 hours!
So that is it for this blog. Thanks for joining us and for the comments along the way. Hope we didn’t bore you too much.
Over and out
Deb, Mark and Erin
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
6 - 14 Sep
Blog 6 – 14 Sep
Mon 6 Sep Ilha de Moz – Quelimane, Mozambique
Had breakfast and then set off for the long drive, hoping to get all the way to Quelimane. Last few shots of Ilha de Mozambique.
Rds were good except for the last 28 kms. Quick shop in Nampula. Divine fruit and veg being sold by hawkers but they are like flies on you as soon as you stop and communication is a real problem. Half of them selling should have been in school, so things aren’t likely to improve as long as education isn’t a priority. Such a contrast to Uganda where all the kids were in school and even the real littlies could speak English.
Only got close to Quelimane late. The rd to Zalala beach was 23km of single lane potholed tar. It was made worse by the dusk light, and number of people and bicycles on the rd. Fortunately the car-stopping deep potholes had branches in them to warn you. We assume they had been cleaned out properly in preparation for sand filling the following day. Nasty if someone removed a branch / it died and shriveled into the hole!
Doris was pretty sketchy on the rds but we eventually found the camp. Arriving after dark is never fun but fortunately the old guy agreed to cook us fish and chips for supper while we set up camp. The fish was absolutely awesome. The ablutions were pretty siff, so we had a tub bath. We heard real waves during the night so guessed we wake to quite a rough sea – getting further south and unfortunately away from the lovely flat seas we’d been having. Other than some dog actually running into the side of our tent in the night and giving us the fright of our lives, it was a peaceful night.
Tues 7th Sep Quelimane – Gorongosa NP, Moz
As it looked the night before, the camp wasn’t that great with a rd between it and the beach and the sea was chocolate brown as we’d seen in Beira on a previous trip. Except for the chance of having another great fish meal, there was no reason to stay, so we packed up and headed for Quelimane town. This time we could actually see the potholes in the rd properly and in fact it was a beautiful rd through the coconuts.
The books said there was a 17th century cathedral in Quelimane but we couldn’t find it and it seemed to have water problems as many of the rds in town were under water. Couldn’t find the bank or beers either so we drove off in a huff headed for Gorongosa National Park.
At Caia we crossed the brand new bridge crossing the Zambezi. Apparently it was only opened this year. Was good not to have to catch the lapped out ferry our books referred to. We paid our M100 toll and cross the long bridge. It must have been a mission to build as the river spreads out with lots of sand banks separating the river into lots of different waterways. Wash day on the various sand patches!
On the other side there was a brand new petrol station and standard bank branch, but the bank was closed and the ATM empty! Hoped the park would accept dollars as we were pretty much out of Met.
Unfortunately it was really hazey so couldn’t see the Gorongoza mountain clearly. It looked as though it is quite spectacular. The vegetation around there was interesting with lots of flowering trees. There were red ones with flowers similar to those in Roberts rd, but the trees had no leaves.
Also a red creeper and trees covered with white trumpet-like flowers. It really was a beautiful drive.
We passed quite a few villages flying the Frelimo flag. Nothing to worry about – they are in power
Once in the park gate we drove through several different biozones from a kind of thorn veld, to sand forests with tall trees and massive palms, to swamps and plains and then fever tree glades. We saw a sable herd in the forests on the way in as well as baboons and lots of warthog.
Chitenga camp appeared to have been rebuilt. The camp had been the Renamo headquarters during the war so had been pretty much destroyed. Restaurant looked good. The shop was a bit sparse but I’m sure they’ll get there. Camp ablutions had hot showers and flush loos – bonus!
Wed 8th Sep – Gorongosa NP
Mark had discovered a bearing had gone in the Land Rover so spent a couple of hours getting that sorted. He tried to get a replacement one, but couldn’t find one so had gunyatt (word courtesy of Mark) the bearing to carry on until we could get a replacement in Vilankulos. Gave the rest of us some time to do some well needed washing – story of our lives - Oh for a washing machine!
Once sorted we all piled into our car and went for a game drive. According to our book there were 3000 elephants and 14000 buffalos shot during the war, so we didn’t expect to see much. The park brochure said there were even lion and leopard. We did see more warthog than I have ever seen and in big groups – anyone know what you call a group of warthog? – we couldn’t remember! We saw some monster crocs, bigger than we saw on the Nile.
We also saw lots of bushbuck and most of the time they were on top of anthills in thickets. It obviously gave them a good vantage point. The other thing there were lots of was waterbuck. It was a really good few hours of driving around though. Quick lunch to avoid the tsetsies!
The biozones are so different and the park is really beautiful and will be a definite on our list for a future visit.
Hopefully the old view sites and restaurants will be restored.
Apparently there is an American guy who has the concession for the park. The park has recently been extended to include the Gorongosa mountains which will be nice for future too.
Back at camp Erin had a swim in the pool – not exactly swimming weather but she has become a fish / mermaid! We went to the restaurant for supper. Had a good meal with Nederberg Baronne. Yay They had an internet hotspot so I managed to catch up with emails but couldn’t get onto the blog. I think I have a virus which is slowly disabling internet access. Hope my computer lasts out until we get home. I’d hate to lose all our photos plus everything else!
Heard the lion during the night – so they actually are there!
Thurs 9 Sep Gorongosa – Inhassoro, Moz
Packed up, filled the water tanks and headed for the coast again. Less than 2 weeks to go today!
It was a fairly uneventful drive to Inhassoro. Crossed the Save River.
Stayed at Seta camp where we stayed with Ab and Nic 10 years ago and Nic ate over a kg of prawns and baby crays (at the age of 4!). You just about got carried away by the mozzies in the showers in those days. Now it is all revamped with new ablutions and a restaurant. Spent the afternoon on the deck by the restaurant with quite a few 2M until the breeze got too chilly.
Unfortunately chose the wrong new shower so had a cold shower! Guys had hot. Oh what I would do for my bath right now!
Had supper at the restaurant. The power went off just after we’d ordered so the order wasn’t quite right but it was all good anyway and this is Africa after all. Margs had a monster lobster for supper.
Friday 10 Sep Inhassoro – Pomene, Moz
Bought Sam and Ut’s engagement pressie and a few other gifts – well done guys, at last!
I discovered I had lost my mastercard which was a real bummer. I had a feeling I’d left it in the ATM so went back into the bank and they had it for me. What a relief! Now that would never have happened in SA.
Rd to Pomene was much better than 10 years ago. Got to Pomne about 2. It was equinox springs so the tide was really high – had to cross sea water a few times on the rd to the lodge. Set up camp for a decent stay – made Keith very nervous It was quite windy but beautiful as the high tide came in really close.
Saturday 11 Sep Pomene
Woke to quite a windy day. Got washing done. Mark replaced the shock rubbers and bearings on the car – hope they last us home now.
At low tide we drove to the old hotel up on the hill which still hasn’t been renovated. Everytime we come here we hear it has been bought and is about to be renovated. It has to be one of the most beautifully situated hotels. It was only built in 1968 and had to be evacuated (and just left) in 1974. There are real horror stories about what both Renamo and Frelimo did to the people in the parts during the war.
Anyway, the hotel is a lot more run down now and unfortunately probably past repair stage, but still an awesome setting with the sea on 1 side and the blowholes and rock pools on the other.
Unfortunately the wind was pumping but it was still worth the walk. Saw whales in the bay from up there.
Margs made a great roast chicken for supper.
Had a drink at the bar after supper. The lodge is also beautifully situated overlooking the estuary. The kids will remember the pool from when we came at Easter with the Brays.
Sunday 12 Sep, Pomene
Woke to a much better day with glorious sun. We took the boat out on the estuary. The wind got up on the way back which made it a bit chilly. Saw a few flamingos.
Mark and Erin went off for a sleep. When I went to join them, Mark was fast asleep and Erin wide awake. Not sure how we are going to get her back into routine. She has slotted right into the late (well late for camping 20h30) nights and equally late mornings. School is going to be a shock!
Took her to the pool so she could swim. It was freezing but she swam anyway.
Had supper at the restaurant for Marg’s and Keith’s last night with us. Was really good!
Said our goodbyes before bed as they were leaving early for Kruger.
Monday 13th, Pomene
Woke to an absolutely stunning day with not a cloud in the sky and no wind. This definitely has to be one of the most divine places on earth – most definitely our favorite.
Had a lovely lazy day. Actually got to lie in the sun – what bliss. We took the boat out to try some fishing. Saw hundreds of little fish just off the mangrove banks. The water was crystal clear. Was better than snorkeling! We saw a few big kingies but couldn’t catch them.
Erin and I swam in the pools left on the beach by the outgoing tide. Had great fun as they were lovely and warm.
In the afternoon we took the boat up into the estuary to try some fishing there, but really needed to be there later. It was beautiful though.
Had roast beef and Yorkshire pud for supper – was very yum.
Tuesday 14th, Pomene
Day looked like it wasn’t going to be so good but by 9 the clouds were gone and there was no wind – another wonderful day.
Took the boat out to try some fishing again.
Still no luck but saw huge schools of king fish and a couple of barracuda. Was a lovely morning. The water was even clearer than the day before. Erin trying to catch the little fish with her bait…
Then we went back to the rock pools by the old hotel so Erin could fish
– she caught her first fish! It was beautiful there as it always is.
Had sun downers at the restaurant – saw dolphin in the estuary.
Back for oxtail for supper. Took a while but was great.
27 Aug - 5 Sep
Blog 27 Aug – 5 Sep
Friday 27th August Kilwa Masoko – Ruvula Safari Camp, Tanzania
Mark took the wheel off the LandRover to try to see what the noise was, but it still remained a mystery. We packed up and headed for Mtwara which looked big enough to have a decent garage.
Fairly boring rd from Kilwa to Lindi and then Mtwara. Got to Mikindani which is on a beautiful bay, mostly mangrove lined. Tourbook warns that locals us the beach in from of the town as an open latrine!
Decided to continue on to Ruvula which was round the otherside of the bay in a Marine National Park. Willie and Ingrid had spent a week there and said the snorkeling was wonderful. This was to be my birthday spot and sounded really good.
First shock was the $20pp NP gate fee (per day). Sand rd had a kind of rubber mat on it – important people must come here!
Got to Ruvula Safari camp and they wanted TS20000 pppn (R117). The camp really didn’t look that good. We decided to carry on and see if there was anything else in the reserve. At the end of the rd (still in the park) we got to a gas works! So much for a national park and guess who the rubber mats were for!
We turned back and stopped at a big house with a boat outside to ask about other camps. The guard and numerous others who surfaced, could not speak any English but were keen for us to stay and pitch camp there on the drive for $20 pp. Well we weren’t sure if that was what they were saying or they were inviting us to stay in the house for that. The owner was clearly away! Shady bunch!
Guess Ruvula was our only option. The ablutions were a hike to the otherside of the camp and then only 1 of the cold showers actually worked. Why can’t these people actually do anything properly. There were tables and chairs down on the beach – 1 even had a table cloth – but the kitchen looked like it doubled as a garage. I was really disappointed – perhaps would have been ok if didn’t have High expectations to start with. The beach was ok but certainly not the wow beach described in the book.
After doing supper, I set off on the hike to shower and the generator went off! Went to bed totally p’d after a facecloth wipe!
Sat 28th August Ruvula – Mikindani, Tanzania
Happy birthday Heather! Not sure if you got our sms
Decided to do some snorkeling as that should be good. What a joke! The growing population has and is continuing to pull every living thing out of the sea. They drag huge reed baskets across the coral catching everything in their paths. There was a huge parrot fish in 1 of the baskets. There were loads of smashed conch shells that had been broken open. These people have no idea what conservation means. Clearly having a national park means rip the Umzungu off, and that is all. We walked to the end of the point through deep sections of rotting sea grass getting increasingly despondent.
As it was my birthday the following day, it was my choice of what we should do although I did get plenty of suggestions which also changed quite often We tried to phone the 2 places in Mikandani that were in the book – but the operator said the numbers didn’t exist – surprise surprise! We decided to go and see anyway.
The 10 degree hotel and camp was right on rd so decided to try the Old Boma first. It was an old German fort that had been renovated in 2001. They wanted $250 per room . We said they were crazy and started walking out and they said they had down stairs rooms for half price! They had beautiful carved 4 poster beds with painted insets and en suite bathrooms and ours had a bath! That sold me! The hotel was beautifully decorated with cane and carved furniture. Our room looked out onto a lovely pool through mozzie net and shuttered windows. The bathroom was the full length of the room with about 6 gunhole windows a beautiful bath set in wood.
We were served freshly squeezed granadilla juice while they assembled a wooden bed together with wooden frame for the surround mozzie net for Erin. She was ecstatic because the place had a pool. She and Keith swam –it was far too cold for us! Spent a lovely afternoon having drinks by the pool.
1778, 1774
Popped Erin in the bath to warm up and she swam and floated and soaked for ages – didn’t want to get out!
Tea was served on the top floor veranda overlooking the bay – how civilized can you get. The fort was built around a quartyard with 6 rooms upstairs and 2 downstairs. It was really beautifully done when they renovated it.
I also had a long, deep hot bath. What a divine treat – best possible early birthday present. Supper was by the pool and was very yummy – great prawns. Was a great evening for an early birthday – 29th we’d be driving.
Sunday 29th August Mikindani, Tanzania – Mocimboa da Pria, Mozambique
Woke quite early as we had a long day and unfortunately only decided that we’d bush camp at the border and thus didn’t need to rush, at breakfast. Had the most scrumptious breakfast. Oh forgot to say I had another soaking bath as a birthday treat! The photo albums I had chosen in Uganda as birthday presents were packed deep in the back of the LandRover so wasn’t going to unpack them – I chose them anyway. Erin was not impressed! Margie and Keith gave me a lovely necklace.
Quickly put a draft of the text for 19 – 26 onto the blog. No time to check it or add photos (still not done). Set off for the border. We opted for the newly opened Unity bridge which was about 600km round trip inland instead of down the coast to the dubious river crossing which we’d heard could cost anything between $200 and $500 depending on how the guy felt and how much money he thought you might have based on your vehicle type. They tie 3 boats together and take the vehicle across. Apparently it is very hairy and is tide dependent so we worked out we’d have to cross at 06h00 / 18h00 neither of which were such a good idea.
Dirt rd to the border was good. Got to chat to Ab with last of Tanz sim money which was great. Nic was unfortunately out. Sorry to anyone who sent me an sms that I didn’t reply to. It seems a few messages were lost while there were no coms from the last town in Tanz till we got to the coast again in the evening. Thank you for all the birthday wishes!
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We got to the border about 13h30 as the rd had been better than expected. The border posts on both sides were brand new and empty and the staff friendly. Erin made us a bit nervous when she just hid behind me when the officials asked her who her mum and dad were and what their names were. The only question she answered was her own name. Luckily they just seemed to be being friendly and weren’t trying to see if she’d been kidnapped!
The Unity bridge across the Rovuma River is quite impressive with huge tusks on either side. As we’d got there early and gained an hour with the change in time zones, we decided to push on back to the coast in Northern Mozambique.
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The dirt rd wasn’t too bad although it had some patches of deep red powder dust. It wasn’t on the GPS at all.
We got to tar at Mueda. Got to Mocimboa da Praia after dark. Chez Natalie camp was a bit of challenge to get to but we made it eventually and set up a 1 night camp. Didn’t look like it was on the water. All pretty tired.
Monday 30 Aug Mocimboa da Praia – Pangane, Moz
The camp was a bit disappointing. Did go down to the bay but was on to mangroves and couldn’t see the bay from the camp. Set off for Pangane. The rd south was badly potholed. We passed Taryn and Mark coming up from Pangane to go to Ibo Island for the luxury prize. Lucky bums! They’d stayed at Husain’s camp (or Hashim / Ashimi depending on which GPS / book you look at) and said it was very nice. As we got towards the coast again, the beauty of the Querimbas archipelago became evident.
There were stacks of islands and bays all with shallow turquoise waters and reefs. Really looked stunning. Luckily Husain’s was on the GPS as there were no signs through the numerous little villages. The camp was at the end of a long spit so had sea on either side. It was an awesome spot.
Unfortunately the wind was howling. We pitched camp and swam and went for a walk to the end of the spit. There were huge piles of monster clam shells – clearly they are a major part of the local’s diet and have been for years.
Tuesday 31st August Pangane, Moz
It rained during the night and was windy again. Decided to take a drive back to Mucojo to find beers and bread. Had no luck with either but found the newly constructed Flower Lodge It was located further round the bay and was still being finished. At $250 pp, it was stunning. The owner, Farruk from Pemba, we were told, was in the hard wood export business and everything was made of hardwood – the bar counters, stools, tables, even steps! The pool overlooked a beautiful beach and had 2 jaccuzis in it!
We had a couple of rather expensive beers which went down very well and decided to have lunch. It took 1.5 hrs to come but the setting was great and the beers and even the glasses cold! Erin got to watch TV (along with the workers who were supposed to be making the solid wood tables and chairs) and we even saw a bit of world news which was a treat.
Saw a big ship offload a ski boat and drop some people off way out on the sand low tide means the waves are far away! Then it went back to the ship and disappeared. Seemed a bit dodgie but perhaps we’re just suspicious or the beers were taking effect! In the end had the better part of a lovely day there.
Back at camp Mark and Erin took Pipsqueak out for a ride. We hoped we’d be able to take the boat to the islands the following day. Husain’s family made us octopus for supper which was tasty – and I’m afraid, less chewy than mark’s attempt. Can’t say octopus is my favourite however it is cooked or by whom!
Wed 1 September Pangane – Pemba, Moz
Unfortunately it was still howling in the morning, so packed up and headed South. Terrain was very different - dry with huge monolithic rocks dotted around.
We were in Pemba before lunch. Pemba is built partly on the hill and sprawls down either side to the bay on 1 side and the beach on the other. The bay is reportedly the deepest in Africa.
The beach has reefs all the way down and is very beautiful.
We checked out Russel’s Camp which sounded the best from the books but it was in a fairly populated area and across the rd from the beach and worse still, had an overlander truck parked there. You know how allergic we are to those so we decided to have lunch at a divine restaurant right on the beach at Wimbe Beach and then see if we could find the Aussie couple that Carla and Raimondo had stayed with.
Lunch was fantastic - beautiful setting, great prawns and fish and speedy service – must be a first on this trip, and all at half the price of the rip off meals we’d had at Kilwa in Tanz.
We sorted out our Moz 3rd party insurance which we somehow didn’t have, in town and changed money. The GPS co-ords we had from Raimondo took us to the middle of a village which was a bit confusing. We were just turning back when a Land Rover with CA registration came along the rd and out jumped an Aussie. We were sure it must be the people we were looking for but they didn’t know anything about Raimondo and Carla. They were also building a lodge as the others were so it was really weird. Anyway, Mark, Mirka and Khaya , their 7 year old daughter took us to their site and very kindly said we could camp there. It had a well and a guard and nothing else but was above a beautiful beach and was out of town. We gratefully accepted and they went back to Russel’s camp where they are staying until they have built enough of their lodge to stay in while they build the rest.
Did our last cheap Tanzanian fillet (R46/kg) for supper. It was a lovely, peaceful evening. We slept with the tent flaps up so we could see the stars. They are quite spectacular up here.
Thursday 2nd September Pemba, Moz
Had a wonderful walk on the beach – they really have a special spot! We collected MORE shells.
We headed back towards Pemba on the dirt track close to the beach to see if we could find the people Raimondo and Carla had stayed with. We found them – they were actually French. Not sure where the communication error came is as Raimondo actually had named the coordinates which were at the turnoff to Mark and Mirka’s site, Aussie. Anyway, the French couple are also building a lodge called Ulala which looks like it will be stunning. It is also beautifully situated and they are building reed and wood bungalows on stilts so you can see over the small dunes to the sea. They had some awesome masks they’d made.
Emma also very kindly said we were welcome to camp there and we said we would most probably be back but needed to go in to Pemba first.
We continued and also found a British couple, Dorothy and Gordon Williamson (ex Scottland Yard), who have a couple of chalets (Isanja Cottages) and are busy with more. They also said we could camp or stay in the chalets for reasonable prices. All very friendly and welcoming people.
On the way in to town we stopped in at the Pemba Dive & Bush camp on the bay side. We’d been in favour of a sea camp rather than on the bay with mangroves because of the mozzies, but Mark had been in contact with Brenda and she had been extremely helpful with rd and resort info via email. We were greeted by such lovely friendly people (who were expecing us the next day - Mark forgot to tell us that he had told Brenda when we should be arriving in Pemba before we left) and one of, and possible the, best camps we’ve seen on this trip. Everything from the private beach, lovely bar and TV lapas with foot tubs and beautiful mask and carving decorations, to the big reed shower and loo rooms with space, and places to hang towels, and chairs, to the fully kitted kitchen, to the camp sites with lapa with chairs and table, shade cover for your tent, fresh drinking water provided daily and a flask of boiling water for coffee delivered every evening and morning – it really was superb. There were also numerous extras – a bonfire with entertainment at night, a mud bath, kiyaks, a nature walk and a really great friendly family running it. We were sold. Keesha gave us a map with all the places we needed in town and we set off to sightsee, have lunch and do the shopping we needed to.
We got what we needed and drove around. Unfortunately although Pemba is beautifully situated with both bay and stunning beaches, it has to be the dirtiest place we’ve been to. There is litter dumped everywhere. They use the beaches as loos all the way from the mouth to the bay along most of the beaches.
Wimbe beach, the main tourist beach, was apparently ok. It looked ok. Popped in at the 5 star Pemba Beach hotel. Expected to be asked for a deposit again, but weren’t, so we had a drink there. We went back to the same restaurant for lunch. This time the prawns and calamari were just as good.
Back to camp for a swim – quite chilly but nice in the setting sun.
Great shower and then to the bonfire for entertainment. The family – are fire ball swingers – not sure how better to describe it. Also had a whole lot of drums for everyone to have turns at around the fire. Was a fun evening. Slept with the flap up so could see the stars.
Friday 3rd September Pemba, Moz
Keith’s 60th!
Woke early to lots of birds. Had heard the bush babies in the night. Flask with water for coffee arrived at 6 – what civilization.
Had booked to go snorkeling with the dolphins for around 11, so caught up with washing, downloading photos etc. Mark helped Brenda with her website. Keesha took us in the bakkie to their dive house on Wimbe beach where we waited for the boat to come back with the morning divers. They were late so we sat on the beach and had a few beers. Was very pleasant.
Once the dive boat got back we set off. Found the first group of dolphins pretty soon. They were playing and jumping but moving too fast to swim with them. Margie, Janine (the German lady travelling in Africa on her own!) and I tried a couple of times but they would disappear too fast.
Then we found another group of 9. There was agroup of 6 including a baby and what looked like 3 teenages who were having a ball, jumping and making lots of noise under the water. They were awesome to swim with – quite hard work at times as their effortless moving in the water was actually quite fast. At other times they played bellow you and you could just float above them having their bubbles come up under you. It was incredible. We didn’t get close enough to touch, but were apparently with them for about 20 minutes. It really was special.
After that we did some snorkeling in a little protected bay off the other side of the mouth to the bay.
It was shallow and then had a 45 degree dropoff covered with coral and schools of little fish. It was lovely. Saw huge urchins with long spines, blue starfish and all kinds of fish including some big parrot fish. Erin wouldn’t keep her mask on so didn’t see anything. The boat trip back was quite bumpy as the wind had picked up. Erin and I sat up front which meant we stayed dry while the others got drenched with spray. The beers flowed, so fun was had.
We had another beer at Russel’s Bar while Janine got her stuff. Chatted again to Mirka. On the way back to camp Keesha took us to the giant baobab that people had once lived in.
Back at camp it was time for our mudbath. Mangrove mud is pretty smelly and I’m not sure has any cleansing properties, but it was fun getting covered anyway. Erin screamed a lot! From there it was off to swim and wash it off. Newcomers in camp thought we were crazy.
Keith had organized fresh fish for his birthday supper and Frans cooked it really nicely. We had a great meal. Bonfire, fireballs and drums again to end off a good day. Hope Keith enjoyed it as much as we did!
Sat 4th Sep Pemba – Nacala, Moz
We hummed and haaed about staying an extra day but decided to move on to Nacala. Headed inland to Metoro before heading South. I can’t believe how clean and organized the villages along the road are compared to Pemba which was so filthy. The terrain en route was again dry with massive rock extrusions.
Nacala has lots of development – looks like big warehouses, factories and cement works being built and an oil refinery. There is major construction all over. It is also beautifully located overlooking both the sea and another stunning bay ( the deepest natural harbour in Africa) in which we saw whales – not sure which kind. We found a lodge with A-frame cottages and a camp site overlooking the bay. Lots of steps down to a picturesque little beach. M, Erin &K swam but it was pretty cold.
Erin and I went back up the hill to swim in the lodge pool. Were all quite bushed from the day before so had an early night.
Sun 5th Sep Nacala – Ilha de Mozambique
Woke to a lovely still morning. Saw more whales in the bay, Mark said they were Humpbacks and Margie said they were Killer Whales - they agreed to disagree. Then packed up and drove down to the point. There are lovely lodges and hotels being built in the stunning spot. Bought 2kg of prawns for R60!
Only a couple of hours to Ilha de Moz, so got there before lunch. The island is joined to the mainland by a narrow – 1 lane bridge 3 km long. It is quite impressive.
Unfortunately for most of the mainland and island beaches people use them as loos so while they may look quite pretty, you don’t want to go there. The island actually only has 1 small “clean” beach. Not sure how it is managed.
We found a hotel which seemed to be the only lodging with secure parking. Apparently theft is a major problem on the island. We unpacked and decided we’d drive to some of the historic sites. We found the hotel that was recommended in our book but which didn’t have secure parking. It had a great atmosphere and we had very garlicky prawns for lunch. Actually it would probably have been quite nice to stay there but wouldn’t have slept wondering what we’d lose in the night.
Outside we had a look at some of the things on sale and got completely harassed by some really painful guys named Harry Potter, No Thanks, etc etc. We drove on trying to find the museum but just got more harassed. Had some kid try to steal stuff out of the back of the Land Rover. That was enough so we decided to go back to the hotel and walk rather. At the museum we got a great guide for the museum and the fort which was really interesting and we didn’t get harassed again. The museum used to be the Govenor’s Palace and had some incredible blackwood furniture intricately carved. It also had various things including gold coins salvaged from various wrecks many only discovered recently (2003). Next to it was the Chapel of Sao Paulo which has its original Portuguese carved pulpit.
The fort was built in 1522 and took 62 years to complete. It is currently being restored. The $1.3 million has only just managed to sort out the roof which was designed to collect water from the entire roof system to fill the 2000 barrel water cistern which still provides water to the people of the island. Our guide said that money donated hardly ever gets to where it is needed as the authorities in Maputo take half and then those in Nacala, the regional capital, take another half. The fort in its time, housed 2000 soldiers. It also contained a hospital, gym, govenor’s offices, chapel, slave holding cell as well as slave market.
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