Blog 27 Aug – 5 Sep
Friday 27th August Kilwa Masoko – Ruvula Safari Camp, Tanzania
Mark took the wheel off the LandRover to try to see what the noise was, but it still remained a mystery. We packed up and headed for Mtwara which looked big enough to have a decent garage.
Fairly boring rd from Kilwa to Lindi and then Mtwara. Got to Mikindani which is on a beautiful bay, mostly mangrove lined. Tourbook warns that locals us the beach in from of the town as an open latrine!
Decided to continue on to Ruvula which was round the otherside of the bay in a Marine National Park. Willie and Ingrid had spent a week there and said the snorkeling was wonderful. This was to be my birthday spot and sounded really good.
First shock was the $20pp NP gate fee (per day). Sand rd had a kind of rubber mat on it – important people must come here!
Got to Ruvula Safari camp and they wanted TS20000 pppn (R117). The camp really didn’t look that good. We decided to carry on and see if there was anything else in the reserve. At the end of the rd (still in the park) we got to a gas works! So much for a national park and guess who the rubber mats were for!
We turned back and stopped at a big house with a boat outside to ask about other camps. The guard and numerous others who surfaced, could not speak any English but were keen for us to stay and pitch camp there on the drive for $20 pp. Well we weren’t sure if that was what they were saying or they were inviting us to stay in the house for that. The owner was clearly away! Shady bunch!
Guess Ruvula was our only option. The ablutions were a hike to the otherside of the camp and then only 1 of the cold showers actually worked. Why can’t these people actually do anything properly. There were tables and chairs down on the beach – 1 even had a table cloth – but the kitchen looked like it doubled as a garage. I was really disappointed – perhaps would have been ok if didn’t have High expectations to start with. The beach was ok but certainly not the wow beach described in the book.
After doing supper, I set off on the hike to shower and the generator went off! Went to bed totally p’d after a facecloth wipe!
Sat 28th August Ruvula – Mikindani, Tanzania
Happy birthday Heather! Not sure if you got our sms
Decided to do some snorkeling as that should be good. What a joke! The growing population has and is continuing to pull every living thing out of the sea. They drag huge reed baskets across the coral catching everything in their paths. There was a huge parrot fish in 1 of the baskets. There were loads of smashed conch shells that had been broken open. These people have no idea what conservation means. Clearly having a national park means rip the Umzungu off, and that is all. We walked to the end of the point through deep sections of rotting sea grass getting increasingly despondent.
As it was my birthday the following day, it was my choice of what we should do although I did get plenty of suggestions which also changed quite often We tried to phone the 2 places in Mikandani that were in the book – but the operator said the numbers didn’t exist – surprise surprise! We decided to go and see anyway.
The 10 degree hotel and camp was right on rd so decided to try the Old Boma first. It was an old German fort that had been renovated in 2001. They wanted $250 per room . We said they were crazy and started walking out and they said they had down stairs rooms for half price! They had beautiful carved 4 poster beds with painted insets and en suite bathrooms and ours had a bath! That sold me! The hotel was beautifully decorated with cane and carved furniture. Our room looked out onto a lovely pool through mozzie net and shuttered windows. The bathroom was the full length of the room with about 6 gunhole windows a beautiful bath set in wood.
We were served freshly squeezed granadilla juice while they assembled a wooden bed together with wooden frame for the surround mozzie net for Erin. She was ecstatic because the place had a pool. She and Keith swam –it was far too cold for us! Spent a lovely afternoon having drinks by the pool.
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Popped Erin in the bath to warm up and she swam and floated and soaked for ages – didn’t want to get out!
Tea was served on the top floor veranda overlooking the bay – how civilized can you get. The fort was built around a quartyard with 6 rooms upstairs and 2 downstairs. It was really beautifully done when they renovated it.
I also had a long, deep hot bath. What a divine treat – best possible early birthday present. Supper was by the pool and was very yummy – great prawns. Was a great evening for an early birthday – 29th we’d be driving.
Sunday 29th August Mikindani, Tanzania – Mocimboa da Pria, Mozambique
Woke quite early as we had a long day and unfortunately only decided that we’d bush camp at the border and thus didn’t need to rush, at breakfast. Had the most scrumptious breakfast. Oh forgot to say I had another soaking bath as a birthday treat! The photo albums I had chosen in Uganda as birthday presents were packed deep in the back of the LandRover so wasn’t going to unpack them – I chose them anyway. Erin was not impressed! Margie and Keith gave me a lovely necklace.
Quickly put a draft of the text for 19 – 26 onto the blog. No time to check it or add photos (still not done). Set off for the border. We opted for the newly opened Unity bridge which was about 600km round trip inland instead of down the coast to the dubious river crossing which we’d heard could cost anything between $200 and $500 depending on how the guy felt and how much money he thought you might have based on your vehicle type. They tie 3 boats together and take the vehicle across. Apparently it is very hairy and is tide dependent so we worked out we’d have to cross at 06h00 / 18h00 neither of which were such a good idea.
Dirt rd to the border was good. Got to chat to Ab with last of Tanz sim money which was great. Nic was unfortunately out. Sorry to anyone who sent me an sms that I didn’t reply to. It seems a few messages were lost while there were no coms from the last town in Tanz till we got to the coast again in the evening. Thank you for all the birthday wishes!
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We got to the border about 13h30 as the rd had been better than expected. The border posts on both sides were brand new and empty and the staff friendly. Erin made us a bit nervous when she just hid behind me when the officials asked her who her mum and dad were and what their names were. The only question she answered was her own name. Luckily they just seemed to be being friendly and weren’t trying to see if she’d been kidnapped!
The Unity bridge across the Rovuma River is quite impressive with huge tusks on either side. As we’d got there early and gained an hour with the change in time zones, we decided to push on back to the coast in Northern Mozambique.
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The dirt rd wasn’t too bad although it had some patches of deep red powder dust. It wasn’t on the GPS at all.
We got to tar at Mueda. Got to Mocimboa da Praia after dark. Chez Natalie camp was a bit of challenge to get to but we made it eventually and set up a 1 night camp. Didn’t look like it was on the water. All pretty tired.
Monday 30 Aug Mocimboa da Praia – Pangane, Moz
The camp was a bit disappointing. Did go down to the bay but was on to mangroves and couldn’t see the bay from the camp. Set off for Pangane. The rd south was badly potholed. We passed Taryn and Mark coming up from Pangane to go to Ibo Island for the luxury prize. Lucky bums! They’d stayed at Husain’s camp (or Hashim / Ashimi depending on which GPS / book you look at) and said it was very nice. As we got towards the coast again, the beauty of the Querimbas archipelago became evident.
There were stacks of islands and bays all with shallow turquoise waters and reefs. Really looked stunning. Luckily Husain’s was on the GPS as there were no signs through the numerous little villages. The camp was at the end of a long spit so had sea on either side. It was an awesome spot.
Unfortunately the wind was howling. We pitched camp and swam and went for a walk to the end of the spit. There were huge piles of monster clam shells – clearly they are a major part of the local’s diet and have been for years.
Tuesday 31st August Pangane, Moz
It rained during the night and was windy again. Decided to take a drive back to Mucojo to find beers and bread. Had no luck with either but found the newly constructed Flower Lodge It was located further round the bay and was still being finished. At $250 pp, it was stunning. The owner, Farruk from Pemba, we were told, was in the hard wood export business and everything was made of hardwood – the bar counters, stools, tables, even steps! The pool overlooked a beautiful beach and had 2 jaccuzis in it!
We had a couple of rather expensive beers which went down very well and decided to have lunch. It took 1.5 hrs to come but the setting was great and the beers and even the glasses cold! Erin got to watch TV (along with the workers who were supposed to be making the solid wood tables and chairs) and we even saw a bit of world news which was a treat.
Saw a big ship offload a ski boat and drop some people off way out on the sand low tide means the waves are far away! Then it went back to the ship and disappeared. Seemed a bit dodgie but perhaps we’re just suspicious or the beers were taking effect! In the end had the better part of a lovely day there.
Back at camp Mark and Erin took Pipsqueak out for a ride. We hoped we’d be able to take the boat to the islands the following day. Husain’s family made us octopus for supper which was tasty – and I’m afraid, less chewy than mark’s attempt. Can’t say octopus is my favourite however it is cooked or by whom!
Wed 1 September Pangane – Pemba, Moz
Unfortunately it was still howling in the morning, so packed up and headed South. Terrain was very different - dry with huge monolithic rocks dotted around.
We were in Pemba before lunch. Pemba is built partly on the hill and sprawls down either side to the bay on 1 side and the beach on the other. The bay is reportedly the deepest in Africa.
The beach has reefs all the way down and is very beautiful.
We checked out Russel’s Camp which sounded the best from the books but it was in a fairly populated area and across the rd from the beach and worse still, had an overlander truck parked there. You know how allergic we are to those so we decided to have lunch at a divine restaurant right on the beach at Wimbe Beach and then see if we could find the Aussie couple that Carla and Raimondo had stayed with.
Lunch was fantastic - beautiful setting, great prawns and fish and speedy service – must be a first on this trip, and all at half the price of the rip off meals we’d had at Kilwa in Tanz.
We sorted out our Moz 3rd party insurance which we somehow didn’t have, in town and changed money. The GPS co-ords we had from Raimondo took us to the middle of a village which was a bit confusing. We were just turning back when a Land Rover with CA registration came along the rd and out jumped an Aussie. We were sure it must be the people we were looking for but they didn’t know anything about Raimondo and Carla. They were also building a lodge as the others were so it was really weird. Anyway, Mark, Mirka and Khaya , their 7 year old daughter took us to their site and very kindly said we could camp there. It had a well and a guard and nothing else but was above a beautiful beach and was out of town. We gratefully accepted and they went back to Russel’s camp where they are staying until they have built enough of their lodge to stay in while they build the rest.
Did our last cheap Tanzanian fillet (R46/kg) for supper. It was a lovely, peaceful evening. We slept with the tent flaps up so we could see the stars. They are quite spectacular up here.
Thursday 2nd September Pemba, Moz
Had a wonderful walk on the beach – they really have a special spot! We collected MORE shells.
We headed back towards Pemba on the dirt track close to the beach to see if we could find the people Raimondo and Carla had stayed with. We found them – they were actually French. Not sure where the communication error came is as Raimondo actually had named the coordinates which were at the turnoff to Mark and Mirka’s site, Aussie. Anyway, the French couple are also building a lodge called Ulala which looks like it will be stunning. It is also beautifully situated and they are building reed and wood bungalows on stilts so you can see over the small dunes to the sea. They had some awesome masks they’d made.
Emma also very kindly said we were welcome to camp there and we said we would most probably be back but needed to go in to Pemba first.
We continued and also found a British couple, Dorothy and Gordon Williamson (ex Scottland Yard), who have a couple of chalets (Isanja Cottages) and are busy with more. They also said we could camp or stay in the chalets for reasonable prices. All very friendly and welcoming people.
On the way in to town we stopped in at the Pemba Dive & Bush camp on the bay side. We’d been in favour of a sea camp rather than on the bay with mangroves because of the mozzies, but Mark had been in contact with Brenda and she had been extremely helpful with rd and resort info via email. We were greeted by such lovely friendly people (who were expecing us the next day - Mark forgot to tell us that he had told Brenda when we should be arriving in Pemba before we left) and one of, and possible the, best camps we’ve seen on this trip. Everything from the private beach, lovely bar and TV lapas with foot tubs and beautiful mask and carving decorations, to the big reed shower and loo rooms with space, and places to hang towels, and chairs, to the fully kitted kitchen, to the camp sites with lapa with chairs and table, shade cover for your tent, fresh drinking water provided daily and a flask of boiling water for coffee delivered every evening and morning – it really was superb. There were also numerous extras – a bonfire with entertainment at night, a mud bath, kiyaks, a nature walk and a really great friendly family running it. We were sold. Keesha gave us a map with all the places we needed in town and we set off to sightsee, have lunch and do the shopping we needed to.
We got what we needed and drove around. Unfortunately although Pemba is beautifully situated with both bay and stunning beaches, it has to be the dirtiest place we’ve been to. There is litter dumped everywhere. They use the beaches as loos all the way from the mouth to the bay along most of the beaches.
Wimbe beach, the main tourist beach, was apparently ok. It looked ok. Popped in at the 5 star Pemba Beach hotel. Expected to be asked for a deposit again, but weren’t, so we had a drink there. We went back to the same restaurant for lunch. This time the prawns and calamari were just as good.
Back to camp for a swim – quite chilly but nice in the setting sun.
Great shower and then to the bonfire for entertainment. The family – are fire ball swingers – not sure how better to describe it. Also had a whole lot of drums for everyone to have turns at around the fire. Was a fun evening. Slept with the flap up so could see the stars.
Friday 3rd September Pemba, Moz
Keith’s 60th!
Woke early to lots of birds. Had heard the bush babies in the night. Flask with water for coffee arrived at 6 – what civilization.
Had booked to go snorkeling with the dolphins for around 11, so caught up with washing, downloading photos etc. Mark helped Brenda with her website. Keesha took us in the bakkie to their dive house on Wimbe beach where we waited for the boat to come back with the morning divers. They were late so we sat on the beach and had a few beers. Was very pleasant.
Once the dive boat got back we set off. Found the first group of dolphins pretty soon. They were playing and jumping but moving too fast to swim with them. Margie, Janine (the German lady travelling in Africa on her own!) and I tried a couple of times but they would disappear too fast.
Then we found another group of 9. There was agroup of 6 including a baby and what looked like 3 teenages who were having a ball, jumping and making lots of noise under the water. They were awesome to swim with – quite hard work at times as their effortless moving in the water was actually quite fast. At other times they played bellow you and you could just float above them having their bubbles come up under you. It was incredible. We didn’t get close enough to touch, but were apparently with them for about 20 minutes. It really was special.
After that we did some snorkeling in a little protected bay off the other side of the mouth to the bay.
It was shallow and then had a 45 degree dropoff covered with coral and schools of little fish. It was lovely. Saw huge urchins with long spines, blue starfish and all kinds of fish including some big parrot fish. Erin wouldn’t keep her mask on so didn’t see anything. The boat trip back was quite bumpy as the wind had picked up. Erin and I sat up front which meant we stayed dry while the others got drenched with spray. The beers flowed, so fun was had.
We had another beer at Russel’s Bar while Janine got her stuff. Chatted again to Mirka. On the way back to camp Keesha took us to the giant baobab that people had once lived in.
Back at camp it was time for our mudbath. Mangrove mud is pretty smelly and I’m not sure has any cleansing properties, but it was fun getting covered anyway. Erin screamed a lot! From there it was off to swim and wash it off. Newcomers in camp thought we were crazy.
Keith had organized fresh fish for his birthday supper and Frans cooked it really nicely. We had a great meal. Bonfire, fireballs and drums again to end off a good day. Hope Keith enjoyed it as much as we did!
Sat 4th Sep Pemba – Nacala, Moz
We hummed and haaed about staying an extra day but decided to move on to Nacala. Headed inland to Metoro before heading South. I can’t believe how clean and organized the villages along the road are compared to Pemba which was so filthy. The terrain en route was again dry with massive rock extrusions.
Nacala has lots of development – looks like big warehouses, factories and cement works being built and an oil refinery. There is major construction all over. It is also beautifully located overlooking both the sea and another stunning bay ( the deepest natural harbour in Africa) in which we saw whales – not sure which kind. We found a lodge with A-frame cottages and a camp site overlooking the bay. Lots of steps down to a picturesque little beach. M, Erin &K swam but it was pretty cold.
Erin and I went back up the hill to swim in the lodge pool. Were all quite bushed from the day before so had an early night.
Sun 5th Sep Nacala – Ilha de Mozambique
Woke to a lovely still morning. Saw more whales in the bay, Mark said they were Humpbacks and Margie said they were Killer Whales - they agreed to disagree. Then packed up and drove down to the point. There are lovely lodges and hotels being built in the stunning spot. Bought 2kg of prawns for R60!
Only a couple of hours to Ilha de Moz, so got there before lunch. The island is joined to the mainland by a narrow – 1 lane bridge 3 km long. It is quite impressive.
Unfortunately for most of the mainland and island beaches people use them as loos so while they may look quite pretty, you don’t want to go there. The island actually only has 1 small “clean” beach. Not sure how it is managed.
We found a hotel which seemed to be the only lodging with secure parking. Apparently theft is a major problem on the island. We unpacked and decided we’d drive to some of the historic sites. We found the hotel that was recommended in our book but which didn’t have secure parking. It had a great atmosphere and we had very garlicky prawns for lunch. Actually it would probably have been quite nice to stay there but wouldn’t have slept wondering what we’d lose in the night.
Outside we had a look at some of the things on sale and got completely harassed by some really painful guys named Harry Potter, No Thanks, etc etc. We drove on trying to find the museum but just got more harassed. Had some kid try to steal stuff out of the back of the Land Rover. That was enough so we decided to go back to the hotel and walk rather. At the museum we got a great guide for the museum and the fort which was really interesting and we didn’t get harassed again. The museum used to be the Govenor’s Palace and had some incredible blackwood furniture intricately carved. It also had various things including gold coins salvaged from various wrecks many only discovered recently (2003). Next to it was the Chapel of Sao Paulo which has its original Portuguese carved pulpit.
The fort was built in 1522 and took 62 years to complete. It is currently being restored. The $1.3 million has only just managed to sort out the roof which was designed to collect water from the entire roof system to fill the 2000 barrel water cistern which still provides water to the people of the island. Our guide said that money donated hardly ever gets to where it is needed as the authorities in Maputo take half and then those in Nacala, the regional capital, take another half. The fort in its time, housed 2000 soldiers. It also contained a hospital, gym, govenor’s offices, chapel, slave holding cell as well as slave market.
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