Blog 6 – 14 Sep
Mon 6 Sep Ilha de Moz – Quelimane, Mozambique
Had breakfast and then set off for the long drive, hoping to get all the way to Quelimane. Last few shots of Ilha de Mozambique.
Rds were good except for the last 28 kms. Quick shop in Nampula. Divine fruit and veg being sold by hawkers but they are like flies on you as soon as you stop and communication is a real problem. Half of them selling should have been in school, so things aren’t likely to improve as long as education isn’t a priority. Such a contrast to Uganda where all the kids were in school and even the real littlies could speak English.
Only got close to Quelimane late. The rd to Zalala beach was 23km of single lane potholed tar. It was made worse by the dusk light, and number of people and bicycles on the rd. Fortunately the car-stopping deep potholes had branches in them to warn you. We assume they had been cleaned out properly in preparation for sand filling the following day. Nasty if someone removed a branch / it died and shriveled into the hole!
Doris was pretty sketchy on the rds but we eventually found the camp. Arriving after dark is never fun but fortunately the old guy agreed to cook us fish and chips for supper while we set up camp. The fish was absolutely awesome. The ablutions were pretty siff, so we had a tub bath. We heard real waves during the night so guessed we wake to quite a rough sea – getting further south and unfortunately away from the lovely flat seas we’d been having. Other than some dog actually running into the side of our tent in the night and giving us the fright of our lives, it was a peaceful night.
Tues 7th Sep Quelimane – Gorongosa NP, Moz
As it looked the night before, the camp wasn’t that great with a rd between it and the beach and the sea was chocolate brown as we’d seen in Beira on a previous trip. Except for the chance of having another great fish meal, there was no reason to stay, so we packed up and headed for Quelimane town. This time we could actually see the potholes in the rd properly and in fact it was a beautiful rd through the coconuts.
The books said there was a 17th century cathedral in Quelimane but we couldn’t find it and it seemed to have water problems as many of the rds in town were under water. Couldn’t find the bank or beers either so we drove off in a huff headed for Gorongosa National Park.
At Caia we crossed the brand new bridge crossing the Zambezi. Apparently it was only opened this year. Was good not to have to catch the lapped out ferry our books referred to. We paid our M100 toll and cross the long bridge. It must have been a mission to build as the river spreads out with lots of sand banks separating the river into lots of different waterways. Wash day on the various sand patches!
On the other side there was a brand new petrol station and standard bank branch, but the bank was closed and the ATM empty! Hoped the park would accept dollars as we were pretty much out of Met.
Unfortunately it was really hazey so couldn’t see the Gorongoza mountain clearly. It looked as though it is quite spectacular. The vegetation around there was interesting with lots of flowering trees. There were red ones with flowers similar to those in Roberts rd, but the trees had no leaves.
Also a red creeper and trees covered with white trumpet-like flowers. It really was a beautiful drive.
We passed quite a few villages flying the Frelimo flag. Nothing to worry about – they are in power
Once in the park gate we drove through several different biozones from a kind of thorn veld, to sand forests with tall trees and massive palms, to swamps and plains and then fever tree glades. We saw a sable herd in the forests on the way in as well as baboons and lots of warthog.
Chitenga camp appeared to have been rebuilt. The camp had been the Renamo headquarters during the war so had been pretty much destroyed. Restaurant looked good. The shop was a bit sparse but I’m sure they’ll get there. Camp ablutions had hot showers and flush loos – bonus!
Wed 8th Sep – Gorongosa NP
Mark had discovered a bearing had gone in the Land Rover so spent a couple of hours getting that sorted. He tried to get a replacement one, but couldn’t find one so had gunyatt (word courtesy of Mark) the bearing to carry on until we could get a replacement in Vilankulos. Gave the rest of us some time to do some well needed washing – story of our lives - Oh for a washing machine!
Once sorted we all piled into our car and went for a game drive. According to our book there were 3000 elephants and 14000 buffalos shot during the war, so we didn’t expect to see much. The park brochure said there were even lion and leopard. We did see more warthog than I have ever seen and in big groups – anyone know what you call a group of warthog? – we couldn’t remember! We saw some monster crocs, bigger than we saw on the Nile.
We also saw lots of bushbuck and most of the time they were on top of anthills in thickets. It obviously gave them a good vantage point. The other thing there were lots of was waterbuck. It was a really good few hours of driving around though. Quick lunch to avoid the tsetsies!
The biozones are so different and the park is really beautiful and will be a definite on our list for a future visit.
Hopefully the old view sites and restaurants will be restored.
Apparently there is an American guy who has the concession for the park. The park has recently been extended to include the Gorongosa mountains which will be nice for future too.
Back at camp Erin had a swim in the pool – not exactly swimming weather but she has become a fish / mermaid! We went to the restaurant for supper. Had a good meal with Nederberg Baronne. Yay They had an internet hotspot so I managed to catch up with emails but couldn’t get onto the blog. I think I have a virus which is slowly disabling internet access. Hope my computer lasts out until we get home. I’d hate to lose all our photos plus everything else!
Heard the lion during the night – so they actually are there!
Thurs 9 Sep Gorongosa – Inhassoro, Moz
Packed up, filled the water tanks and headed for the coast again. Less than 2 weeks to go today!
It was a fairly uneventful drive to Inhassoro. Crossed the Save River.
Stayed at Seta camp where we stayed with Ab and Nic 10 years ago and Nic ate over a kg of prawns and baby crays (at the age of 4!). You just about got carried away by the mozzies in the showers in those days. Now it is all revamped with new ablutions and a restaurant. Spent the afternoon on the deck by the restaurant with quite a few 2M until the breeze got too chilly.
Unfortunately chose the wrong new shower so had a cold shower! Guys had hot. Oh what I would do for my bath right now!
Had supper at the restaurant. The power went off just after we’d ordered so the order wasn’t quite right but it was all good anyway and this is Africa after all. Margs had a monster lobster for supper.
Friday 10 Sep Inhassoro – Pomene, Moz
Bought Sam and Ut’s engagement pressie and a few other gifts – well done guys, at last!
I discovered I had lost my mastercard which was a real bummer. I had a feeling I’d left it in the ATM so went back into the bank and they had it for me. What a relief! Now that would never have happened in SA.
Rd to Pomene was much better than 10 years ago. Got to Pomne about 2. It was equinox springs so the tide was really high – had to cross sea water a few times on the rd to the lodge. Set up camp for a decent stay – made Keith very nervous It was quite windy but beautiful as the high tide came in really close.
Saturday 11 Sep Pomene
Woke to quite a windy day. Got washing done. Mark replaced the shock rubbers and bearings on the car – hope they last us home now.
At low tide we drove to the old hotel up on the hill which still hasn’t been renovated. Everytime we come here we hear it has been bought and is about to be renovated. It has to be one of the most beautifully situated hotels. It was only built in 1968 and had to be evacuated (and just left) in 1974. There are real horror stories about what both Renamo and Frelimo did to the people in the parts during the war.
Anyway, the hotel is a lot more run down now and unfortunately probably past repair stage, but still an awesome setting with the sea on 1 side and the blowholes and rock pools on the other.
Unfortunately the wind was pumping but it was still worth the walk. Saw whales in the bay from up there.
Margs made a great roast chicken for supper.
Had a drink at the bar after supper. The lodge is also beautifully situated overlooking the estuary. The kids will remember the pool from when we came at Easter with the Brays.
Sunday 12 Sep, Pomene
Woke to a much better day with glorious sun. We took the boat out on the estuary. The wind got up on the way back which made it a bit chilly. Saw a few flamingos.
Mark and Erin went off for a sleep. When I went to join them, Mark was fast asleep and Erin wide awake. Not sure how we are going to get her back into routine. She has slotted right into the late (well late for camping 20h30) nights and equally late mornings. School is going to be a shock!
Took her to the pool so she could swim. It was freezing but she swam anyway.
Had supper at the restaurant for Marg’s and Keith’s last night with us. Was really good!
Said our goodbyes before bed as they were leaving early for Kruger.
Monday 13th, Pomene
Woke to an absolutely stunning day with not a cloud in the sky and no wind. This definitely has to be one of the most divine places on earth – most definitely our favorite.
Had a lovely lazy day. Actually got to lie in the sun – what bliss. We took the boat out to try some fishing. Saw hundreds of little fish just off the mangrove banks. The water was crystal clear. Was better than snorkeling! We saw a few big kingies but couldn’t catch them.
Erin and I swam in the pools left on the beach by the outgoing tide. Had great fun as they were lovely and warm.
In the afternoon we took the boat up into the estuary to try some fishing there, but really needed to be there later. It was beautiful though.
Had roast beef and Yorkshire pud for supper – was very yum.
Tuesday 14th, Pomene
Day looked like it wasn’t going to be so good but by 9 the clouds were gone and there was no wind – another wonderful day.
Took the boat out to try some fishing again.
Still no luck but saw huge schools of king fish and a couple of barracuda. Was a lovely morning. The water was even clearer than the day before. Erin trying to catch the little fish with her bait…
Then we went back to the rock pools by the old hotel so Erin could fish
– she caught her first fish! It was beautiful there as it always is.
Had sun downers at the restaurant – saw dolphin in the estuary.
Back for oxtail for supper. Took a while but was great.
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